When the error first appeared I did a quick Google search and found a thread of messages on GardenWeb.com with several other Hayward Aqualogic owners reporting the same problem.
The problem appeared to be the main board and was going to cost between $500-$900 to repair -- until navyet posted his findings. Navyet reported that he removed the main board and found a melted solder joint on the back of K1. He resoldered the joint and it worked like a charm.
Since then several users, including me, have reported similar success.
The problem appeared to be the main board and was going to cost between $500-$900 to repair -- until navyet posted his findings. Navyet reported that he removed the main board and found a melted solder joint on the back of K1. He resoldered the joint and it worked like a charm.
Since then several users, including me, have reported similar success.
These are the steps I took to resolve the error. It may not work for you. Following these instructions could lead to expensive pool repairs, electrocution, and death. Use at your own risk.
You can contact me at nocellpower at dahlkids dot com.
You can contact me at nocellpower at dahlkids dot com.
Update
Read a letter from a Hayward/Goldline Warranty station!
Read a letter from a Hayward/Goldline Warranty station!
If you have success (or failure) leave a comment to this post.
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you! Same exact problem. Called Aqualogic, they told me to check the 20A fuse. When I confirmed the fuse wasn't blown they told me to contact my pool company since they were an approved warranty provider for Aqualogic. Decided to Google this first and found this link. Took the board off, and found the same burned out connection under the relay. Soldered it back and Presto, works like new!
ReplyDeleteThanks,
Michael
Have same problem thi morning after lot trouble shutting I find the solar valve motore was wet and corrode short out
Delete20amp fuse is to protect all valve 24 volt
Easy way to look for problem by 4 new fuse disconnect all valve and replace the fuse
Bless you! Bless you! Bless you! As a single mom of two kids...the $800 it was going to cost to "fix and replace" this issue had been causing me stress since my "no cell power" error showed up back in Sept '08. Out of the blue yesterday I decided to do some further research online and found this "fix". So...I figured, "why not?"! I followed the directions to a "T" and was overwhelmed with relief when it worked! EXACT SAME problem...and what a shame Aqualogic isn't recalling this panel to take better care of their customers. Tsk tsk.
ReplyDeleteHappy Summer!!!
Laura
Cedar Park, TX
Wow! Thank you for posting this and for the other guy that discovered this common main board problem. Resoldering the K1 resolved my problem. I need to add to this blog that my diagostics was not "no cell power". My diagnostic message began as "low temp" with my water at 80 degrees F, then after resetting many times by cycling the power my diagnostics said "Check Salt Level" and my true salt level was 3200PPM. So I suggest anyone whos cell will not click on check the K1 joint. Easy fix.
ReplyDeleteYou are the man, this was brilliant! Used your method, got the cell working, no problem. And I'm terrible at this kind of stuff! Thanks so much, you saved me like $500.
ReplyDeleteYou saved me a ton of money. You and Navyet are the best. I changed the fuses and soldered the K1 joint and now the cell has power and is running normally. Thanks!
ReplyDeletewhat fuses did you change?
DeleteThanks for taking the time to document the steps, Darentx.
ReplyDeleteI followed the string of information from the Gardenweb to this site.
RobnHouston
What everyone said above and more! THANK YOU! You are my hero. This social Internet thing is pretty cool. ;-)
ReplyDeleteLike everyone else, I had the "No Cell Power" error on my 3 year *young* system -- just out of full warranty -- and was slammed with the prospect of having to shell out upwards of $500-$800 to get this manufacturer's defect fixed so my pool could be blue via the salt chlorinator again (nasty algae ensued). Well, I added a couple gallons of raw chlorine and that fixed the problem temporarily. I highly recommend doing this if you can't fix this problem quickly. Next step was to do some research on the problem and thanks to Google, the Gardenweb.com string appeared and I read every word intently... and then was stoked to come across this site, nocellpower.com. How cool of you to take the time to document all of this! You are a Godsend.
So, I just finished the repair with my father-in-law (much more of an electrician than me). I followed the simple and easy to understand instructions on the site and it seems to have worked like a charm. My "Check System" light immediately turned off and the "No Cell Power" error message is nowhere to be found. I am going to watch it closely and report back if it did NOT work, so assume no news is good news. I'll also post some photos and videos on the corresponding steps.
Again, to the author of this site, my sincerest of thanks. Have a great summer!
BC
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHere's a video of us resoldering the joint. It worked like a charm. Salt and chlorine levels are back up.
ReplyDeleteIf you think you have the same problem, follow the instructions (AND BE CAREFUL - TURN OFF YOUR POWER) and go for it.
Thanks again!
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ffOV3rTyvRhqrryCP4pHmA?authkey=Gv1sRgCI3El6TZqcDtZw&feat=directlink
Thank you so much for posting this repair article. I had to call back my pool repair tech to cancel PCB board replacement, I found your article at the last minute and it solved my problem, and saved me $600.00!
ReplyDeleteMan, am I glad I found this website.
ReplyDeleteI followed the instructions and presto! No more problem.
Thank you so so much.
This was a great help. My AquaLogic control panel looks a little different than the one in your pictures but the PCB looks similar - including the bad connection on K1. Mine was installed with the pool back in November 2003. I've had to replace the cell back in May of 2006 (just inside the warranty). I thought for sure the cell had gone again and ordered one on-line before finding that helpful thread on GardenWeb which lead me here. Since there is a 25% restocking fee if I cancel the order, I'll keep it on a shelf ready for when it will be needed. Even though I spent $500 on a not-yet-needed cell. I'm sure you saved the cost of replacing the PCB because I would have just replaced it not knowing there was a simple fix.
ReplyDeleteWe searched Google for the error message,
ReplyDelete"no cell power" and up came this site. An amazingly simple fix and has saved many of us LOTS of our hard earned money. Took me and my brother about 20 minutes to resolder the burned area. It was not nearly as messed up as the authors but we did the fix anyway. Thank goodness we tried it anyway because it FIXED the issue and it is now producing salt again. My only suggestion is for you to add a PayPal Donation button so those of us whom you saved hundreds can give you a monetary donation. Thanks again!
I have a PS-8 about 4 years old. Last year I was experiencing an occasional message stating that I had a bad flow switch. I removed and cleaned it. That seemed to solve that problem. Well, this year I started getting the same message. Again, I cleaned it and reinstalled. No more bad flow switch messages to date.
ReplyDeleteAbout a week ago I got the dreaded “No Cell Power” message that leads me to read this site. Earlier today I looked at the back of the PCB. To my amazement, there weren’t any burned areas as reported here. Nonetheless, I reheated and soldered the two points behind the K1 relay. Put everything back together and fired it up. The “bad flow switch” message reappeared but went away after the pump ran for about 5 minutes.
The pump has been running about an hour now without any messages. I’ll report back if I experience any further problems. Something is causing the point on the K1 relay to arc and burn. I’m guessing that it is a bad solder joint (too little solder). That’s why I decided to re-soldered it even though I did not observe any burned areas.
Thank you for providing this valuable information. Gold Line Controls needs to step up to the plate, acknowledge this problem, and replace these faulty PCBs.
A copy of a letter I am sending to the attorney general of AZ.
ReplyDeleteI removed my info and that of the employees of the pool companies.
To Whom It May Concern:
My pool was installed in March 2006 by a pool company with a Goldline Aqua Logic Pool controller AQL-P4. This controller serves to control the electrical systems of the pool- generating chlorine and the filter. The controller was warranted for 3 years so it expired in March 2009- (less than 3 months ago).
On Saturday June 20th I discovered a “No Cell Power” message on my Aqua Logic P4. As a result my pool system could not generate chlorine from the salt system and the pool had turned green. Since Hayward’s customer service was closed for the weekend I turned to the internet for assistance. I discovered there to be a tremendous number of complaints from other customers about this same problem. Apparently many owners with AQL-P4 controllers had them break right around or shortly after their warranty expired. They all reported the same problem that the K1 joint was melted. Following instructions from www.nocellpower.com I disassembled the products to find a melted K1 joint with visible burned damage.
On Monday June 22nd I contacted Hayward and spoke with someone. He told me Hayward was aware of the “No Cell Power” error message and the K1 joint. He said that he typically fielded several calls a week with the same issue. He said Hayward would not cover this under warranty since it is three months past the expiration date. Hayward does not suggest product owners attempt the repair because of the safety issue of high voltage. He said that 40% of the parts would be covered under a partial warranty but none of the labor.
On Monday June 22nd I spoke with someone from the pool company. He reported that the repair would be $740. A replacement would be approximately $900. He said that he heard of this problem every couple weeks and has been surprised by the frequency of the problem with this specific device.
This AQL-P4 is manufactured by Goldline Controls, a subsidiary of Hayward Industries. Due to the vast number of complaints listed on the internet it is likely that the Aqua Logic brand has a flaw in the control board that causes a circuit over load and product failure. A melted solder joint in area K1 of the board routine fails in this product. The product was redesigned during 2007 or 2008. In all likelihood Goldline and Hayward were aware of the circuit defect. As a result I feel that Hayward/Goldline should cover the full cost of the repair or replacement of a known and dangerous electrical flaw.
The purpose of this letter is two fold.
1. To bring to your attention a known product design flaw.
2. To require the manufacturer to acknowledge the product failure and offer complimentary replacement.
An example of this issue can be viewed on www.nocellpower.com.
Discussion of this issue can be found on http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/pools/msg021834138300.html and http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=8206 and http://x.havuz.org/viewtopic.php?p=20287
I am happy to provide any additional supporting photos or documentation needed. Thank you for your attention to this matter.
Cc: Presidential Pools
525 E Baseline Rd
Gilbert, AZ 85233
Office of the Attorney General
Consumer Information and Complaints
1275 W. Washington
Phoenix, Arizona 85007-2926
Goldline Controls
61 Whitecap Dr.
North Kingstown, RI 02852
Department of Attorney General
Consumer Protection Unit
150 South Main Street
Providence, RI 02903
Hayward Pool Products
620 Division Street
Elizabeth, NJ 07207
Did you ever get a response?
Delete'Procrastination' never felt so good! Got this problem back in March, saw the web posts on how costly the fix is, and decided to do nothing. Now that summer is heating up in Arizona (I mean going over 100 degrees) I needed to get it fixed. Called the pool company and they said it would cost $85 to show up, $535 for the part and some more for labor. Made the appointment and for some reason ggogled the problem once more and voila, found this new site! Canceleld the appointment (that I got after waiting for a week) and follwed the simple instructions to get it fixed. I wish the creator of this website every success in life. It's not the money we saved, it's the peace of mind we have by fixing it this way (not giving money to those people that don't deserve it and most likely created the problem). That's priceless!
ReplyDeleteAhhhhh!
I just returned from a trip to discover a green pool and the message “No Cell Power” on my Aqua Logic P4. I found this site and like so many others,same problem. I followed the repair directions and can happily report that I'm fully operational again. Thanks, it saved me a lot of $$$$$$$$. In these tough economic times its great that "We the people" can help one another.
ReplyDeleteI got this same error on my aqua logic P4 shortly after the warranty expiration..(What a scam!) Has anyone tried getting a recall fix on this?
ReplyDeleteWhere are the instructions?
ReplyDeleteResoldering mine didn't work, because the relay was bad on mine. Ordered it by googling the part number found on the k1 relay. (all three relays are the same and the website for ordering the relay has a $35 minimum order requirement). Each one only costs about $2.50, so I ordered $30 worth of wire ties to round out my minimum order. LOL! Anyway, heated up solder, removed old KI, put in new, put it all together - IT WORKS! Moral of the story...don't quit if just soldering doesn't work, try replacing the KI also.
ReplyDeleteCan you tell me where you ordered the relay from and the part number?
DeleteThanks so much to the person that figured out this fix.
ReplyDeleteMy PS8 is just three years old and i had the same error.
I re-solderred the joint and it fired right up.
Thanks do much.
Thank you for this repair. I have an AQL-PS-8 system that was displaying the "no cell power" message and also the "cell off-low temperature" message. Since the outside temperature was 112F and the pool water 91F I knew something was wrong with the control panel. As usual, the fault occurred on a weekend when the Goldline Control service department was closed. Using your photos, I discovered the solder had melted on the K1 relay pin on my circuit board. I soldered the pin, and sure enough, problem solved. Now, what caused the solder joint to melt in the first place?
ReplyDeleteWorked for us! Thanks!
ReplyDeleteI had the same problem w/K1 joint, followed instructions to fix it and voila, problem solved. Saved hundreds of dollars. Keep posting,very helpful.
ReplyDeleteOne more thing,to return to normal salt level(ppm) how much water should I drain and replace w/fresh water? Anyone?
I had the same problem with no cell power, but the fix didn't work for me. Thanks anyway.
ReplyDeleteResoldering mine didnt work either.
ReplyDeleteIm looking to replace the relay.
Does anyone know where I can get the K1 relay?
Another success story to report...we had no cell power 2 error message on our PS-8. My husband soldered the K1 just like the instructions recommended and everything is working like a charm! My husband is now a believer in Google. Thank you for offering your assistance to everyone navyet!
ReplyDeleteSame K1 failure for use, resoldering fixed the problem. Our pool maintenance company didn't have a clue...they said they thought the board would need to be replaced. NOT! Everyone who saved hundreds of dollars on this fix should definitely donate a few bucks to the site owner.
ReplyDeleteThanks again, I'll be donating a few bucks since you just saved me hundreds.
ReplyDeleteI documented my experience with the fix and the video is up at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bkgN8ck-N8
Thank you!
I did try resoldering but did not work. I have ordered new K1 Relays from Mouser.com and then I will try that.
ReplyDeletethe part number is G8P-1C4P
I replaced the relay on the K1 and worked fine.
ReplyDeleteyou can order at Newark.com.
Thank you very much for your posting. With the benefit of the youtube video referenced above, I was able to fix the problem for about $20 (cost of soldering kit). Thanks again.
ReplyDeleteHayward and Gold line products.
ReplyDeleteIn 2006 I installed a top of the line Salt pool using Hayward and Gold Line pump, heater and electronics. This is my fourth pool and the nicest one yet. The pool has been great but the Hayward products have been nothing short of garbage. From day one I have had problems. I understand that problems do occur. Unfortunately with Hayward there is zero interest in solving problems. Good luck even getting in touch with a person that cares. So far I have replaced the following:
Pool Filter motor and pump
3 computer boards. It seems they don’t last more than about six months.
2 pool heater thermostats
Electric valve control.
2 different service calls for burned wires
Heater wind stack to reduce back air.
The money I have saved in my salt system has been given back to Hayward in the shape of an ongoing revenue fund raiser. AVOID THESE PRODUCTS AT ALL COSTS IF POSSIBLE.
Thank you, thank you thak you. It worked for me. I would love to donate for the help...this was going to cost so much, and WOW the joy of fixing this. Awesome!
ReplyDeleteOkay, this is the best Google search i've ever done! Thanks! Not wanting to solder this myself, I called our local warranty station and they said they are getting about 3 of these per week. Goldline is backordered, so it's clearly a big problem. if I can't get the part, I'll get my board repaired.
ReplyDeleteThank you! I had the same problem. It took me about ten minutes and my Aqualogic is running again.
ReplyDeleteWell, I guess Hayward and Goldline products are not the ones to have. My Aqualogic says Communication Error and is not working. My pump and solar and everything still comes on but I can't change it or control it. They want $l,500.00 to replace the two boards that I have. Any information or help someone could give me would be appreciated.
ReplyDeleteDonna
did you ever find a way to fix this without buying a new board, I have same problem Frank
DeleteThankyou for this post. You did an excellent job describing how to repair this problem. It smelled like something was burning in my panel for about a week, then it read Low Voltage to cell. A couple hours later it read No cell power. I tried to solder the post, but I had to order a new relay. Now it works perfect. Thanks again for taking the time to document this problem.
ReplyDeleteI am greatful for this thread but after 2 attempts to solder the joint it still does not work. I ordered the k-1 relay part on newark.com. I am having a difficult time removing the old k-1 from the circuit board any suggestions???
ReplyDeleteThank you for everyone who spilled the secret. I'm not sure how much it would cost but a quick trip to Lowe's and $20 later (i had to buy electrical solder and a soldering wand), my cell power is working again. It was the K1...
ReplyDeleteMy recommendation is simple. Hayward should have a recall on these boards. This will cost Hayward money but so does loosing their reputation and market share. I just went to hayward-pool.com, clicked on "contact us" and asked them to do a recall. If their email inbox is filled with similar requests they might get the point.
ReplyDeleteWhile I am sitting here waiting for a response from Goldline I decided to search my issue and here I am. My pool was installed in 2007, since then I have has 6 Aqualogic boards and 2 cells installed. I am now in discussions with them again because low salt reading. I have had issues where th pump would turn on and off by its self. No Cell power multiple times and low salt readings. They have paid their local dealer to install new boards,l they sent their own manager which is local to the area to install a new board last may.
ReplyDeleteHere I am again with the same issues. The difference now is that they do not want to pay the service call for the 7th board to be installed.
Absolutely ridiculous company!!!!!!!
just found the YouTube video describing how to fix this. It was a god send - it took me 3 tries at the soldering, but got it to work. Can't believe what a common problem this is, but how resistent Hayward is to address it.
ReplyDeleteI fixed my No Cell Power error and made a video about it.
ReplyDeletehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPL_YnvWumk&feature=youtu.be
Worked for me, thank you for the help. It was also nice to see it on youtube.
ReplyDeleteWe used this fix. Worked great and solved our problem. I see that this post dates back quite a few years...what have poeple found for the length of time the fix works?
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for this info. I just had the No Cell Power Error happen to me today and I got it fixed in 20 minutes. Just soldering didn't work. I needed to run a wire from the K1 to another pin on the same ground plane.
ReplyDeleteIT WORK. THANK YOU!!! MY HU8SBAND DID IT...THANK YOU SAVE US A LOS OF MONEY. SAN JUAN PUERTO RICO
ReplyDeleteI did this once and it worked all last year, thanks! However, I wasn't able to get it to work again this year. The best solution when you need to replace is https://www.saltsolutionsinc.com.
ReplyDeleteThank you for the info. Worked for me too. The real frustration is that the company has not recalled this product. Reading through the vast amounts of users fixing this issue on their own makes me surprised that no one has been injured and that no fires have been caused by the shorting out of this K1 solder joint. I have said my piece on their contact page. My next letter will be to the better business bureau, UL or CE (whomever certifies their products and our local new room.
ReplyDeleteThanks Again
I actually found this fix at another site, tried it, and it didn't work. I took the board off and removed the old solder, cleaned the solder joint with alcohol and I soldered it again....SHAZAM! Make sure the solder joint is clean and free of debris before you ever start, or else the connection will not be solid.
ReplyDeleteSuccess! Thank you so much for the great advice. We were ready to purchase a new board and my husband came across your fix. We are very happy to have our salt system back up and working. Best of all, didn't cost us anything and it only took a few minutes. THANKS!
ReplyDeleteMy husband just fixed our Aqualogic motherboard by soldering the K1 connection. It was simple and worked like a charm. When he removed the motherboard, the spot was identical to all the others who had problems with the Aqualogic. Thank you for posting
ReplyDeleteworked like a charm! take photos when you unplug stuff...other than that, not a big prob! youtube has some videos of what youre doing as well. lookup "no cell power fix". the video is from 5 years ago, so this problem is no surprise to Hayward. whoever posted this fix originally, you are a saint!
ReplyDeleteTook a couple times to get the soldering to stick, but once it did.... we're back in business. thank you for posting and saving me a big replacement bill. I'll be sending you a donation so you can enjoy a few drinks by your pool on me!
ReplyDeleteI have reprinted this comment from Gardenweb.com which allows pictures and may be more helpful.
ReplyDeletehttp://www.gardenweb.com/discussions/2526852/help-with-aqualogic-ps-4?ps=1
I have a similar K1 problem with my Aqualogic PS4. I took 10 years to occur, so I guess I was lucky. I read all the posts about new boards and resoldering the K1 joint, but I was a little mystified as to why the same solder joint fails all the time. Those boards are probably wave-soldered by a machine, so there is no human element involved. The only reason the same joint fails is that something makes it fail. I inspected the circuit board and noticed that the power resistor (R45) attached to the K1 trace was somewhat toasty. The resistor is supposed to be a 0.2 Ohm 1 watt resistor (Red-Black-Silver). The resistor may be a half-watt item, but I am not sure. When I removed and measured it with a DVM is came out to be 0.447 Ohm (although the resistance varied with how much manual pressure was applied to the resistor casing). Normally resistors are not prone to thermal-runaway like semiconductors, but I am not sure about newer metal film resistors like these. Anyway, it does not measure out to be the right resistance. I decided to put in a heavier wattage resistor along with resoldering K1. Power 2 watt low resistance resistors are a little hard to come by on Sunday afternoon. The only local place for resistors is Radio Shack, although they have markedly reduced their supply of resistors recently. My sole choice was to put two 0.47 Ohm 5 Watt resistors in parallel to approximate the burnt 0.2 Ohm resistor. Unfortunately, there was not enough room for the enormous power resistors, so I put one off to the side of the fuse and one behind the circuit board in parallel, then layered in some high temp solder on the trace (after scraping off the green trace insulation and not the copper trace). I actually wrapped one leg of a resistor around the K1 leg that normally fails. I am hoping that the wire wrapped K1 joint and the layered in high temp solder (mp 455 degrees F) will afford a little added heat resistance to the K1 joint. , I would probably recommend a simple 2 watt 0.2 Ohm power resistor swap if you can find one.The system is working currently for one week (no pun intended). I believe there was a design flaw originally, because the power resistor was unable to handle the current load to the power cell. (I also know that I am not an electrical engineer and might be completely wrong.)
"I was a little mystified as to why the same solder joint fails all the time" happens because that pin of the relay connects to a high thermal mass inside the relay. The entire shaft of the pin did not reach solder flow temperature during wave soldering, so only a thin solder fillet appeared on the solder side of the board. If you run your chlorinator at higher currents and the incomplete solder joint was particularly thin on your unit, this joint ran hot and after a few years of use would burn up. Hayward improved the "wave solder profile" settings problem several years ago.
DeleteJust fixed mine. Worked exactly as described. thanks.
ReplyDeleteFixed my board. Worked exactly as the blog indicated. Thanks for the help! One side note: I did not remove the display, just pulled it off the plastic tabs and let it hang. i was afraid of breaking connectors, etc. This enabled me to access the bottom-right bolt to free up the board. Flipped it over, dropped a bead of solder on it, and away it went. AWESOME! Thanks again!!!
ReplyDeleteFix worked great and saved me big $$$. Thanks to all who are keeping this thread going. And a big thank you for the original problem solver and for the YouTube poster!!!
ReplyDeleteThank you. Having replaced this board 2x in 9 years I was furious and went looking to see if I could replace it myself. I was doubtful this could work till I read all the successes so I went for it. I was able to pull two wire assemblies off and just flip the board down. A novice solderer I spent an hour messing with a 25 watt iron. I upgraded to a 60 watt and was done in 5 minutes. Thanks again
ReplyDeleteThank you very much for this article. The step by step instructions with pictures were easy to follow and our Aqualogic is running perfectly again!
ReplyDeleteFantastic! It took only 20 minutes from the time I read this fix till my unit was up and running and my tools were put away. I was on hold with Hayward Support longer than that, prior to going on line, and all they told me was to call a technician. Your description and directions were spot on.
ReplyDeleteThank you!
Dean
Great. Thanks for the fix. I did it today and it is now working! I have a Hayward ProLogic PL-P-4-X288. To bad I didn't find this back in April 2010. Had service tech come out, checked it out and replaced the board. Lucky back then it was still in warranty.
ReplyDeleteJust did the fix myself. First time to solder so I was a little unsure that it would work....... but woohoo ! It worked. If I had just remembered to plug the cell back in before turning it back on it would have been a perfect fix! lol
ReplyDeleteFor some reason the STEP BY STEP instructions won't load for me. Does someone have another link that they can post, or can email me the instructions - robertmhill.0613@yahoo.com - that would be great! I'm having the same "NO CELL POWER" issue. Thanks a million!
ReplyDeleteCan someone help me, my screen says Communication Error 1, the pump and timer and chlorine work, but I can't make any changes or manually shut off the pump during timers settings. Anyone have a fix for "Communication Error 1" Thanks Frank
ReplyDeleteHi Group, my 8 year old AquaLogic system has had the "NO CELL POWER" issue twice. I found this site the first time it failed and was very happy. Thank you for the author! I like others, am happy to have found this as it saved me a ton of money!
ReplyDeleteNow, today, I get "TEST SALT CELL - VERY LOW SALT". I took my cell to my local pool store and they tested the cell and confirmed that the cell was in fact good. So does anyone on this site have any experience with this same issue? I found one video online where a guy replaced three components on the main PCB at a cost of a mere $8. But he had a different main PCB. Thanks in advance for any and all help!
Lightning storm came through and then the error appeared. Thanks so much for posting this. I replaced the board two years ago but sure I didn't need to now. I heated the joint a little and cleaned then just a bit of flux and a bit less solder and it works!!
ReplyDeleteAugust 13, 2016. Thank you one thousand times.I am sorry, but money is real short right now. I am sure that good things will come to you because you have help so many people. What goes around, comes around and nothing but good news are coming your way!. Fixed my green pool thanks to you. For six months I was trying to save money, BUT with six kids is hard to save. Thank you again and again. Keep up the good info!
ReplyDelete!! Port Credit Mississauga !!
ReplyDeleteJust tried this solution and it worked .
Went to 2 different pool places in the area
and no one had any idea's, other then schedule a service call.
Thanks a bunch! My system has had the "NO CELL POWER" issue. I followed step by step instructions with pictures were easy. In my case I found the small yellow fuse (20A) melted. I replaced it and my AquaLogic is working again
ReplyDeleteI echo all the thank you's of the people before me. Its the best feeling in the world when it starts back up with no error message. I've never soldered before, took me several times to get it, but I did it! For those newbies who have never soldered, here is a really good link. http://www.sciencebuddies.org/science-fair-projects/project_ideas/Elec_primer-solder.shtml#soldering
ReplyDeleteThanks Again!
Thanks a lot for sharing this informative blog with us,..
ReplyDeleteresidential electrician
The concept behind your post is just amazing,..
ReplyDeletecommercial electrician
I echo the comment from 11/16/16. I thought 'NO WAY will this work..." And it did. Thanks for saving me $700. I'll throw a nickel in the coffers!
ReplyDeleteThank you, thank you, thank you! My pool is going on 11 years old and it's turned into a bit of a money pit in the last year and a half. Thank you for saving me the money and hassle of having to get a new motherboard. A donation to the site is on its way!
ReplyDeleteThank you so much!! Saw the No Cell Power this AM on the display panel. My unit is 7 years old so I prepped myself for a big repair bill. Set up the pool tech visit for this Friday. I came across this post and figured what the hell, might as well try. It worked!! Can't believe it!! I'm cancelling the pool tech Friday and I'm throwing a pool party instead!! You da man!!
ReplyDeleteGreat site and awesome video and advice. I just completed a successful fix. Unfortunately it took me 4 tries. On the last try I exposed some of the metallic trace and that seemed to allow for a good connection. Thank you!
ReplyDeleteI had a similar problem 4 years ago and the pool tech replaced the circuit board. After coming across this site I took the board off and found the same solder issue. Ten minutes to fix.
ReplyDeleteCount another person who saved $500 plus. Thank you so much. And i did see all of the people who claimed that they did the worst solder job ever. Well I topped all of you. For those of you who have never soldered before, like myself, the only advice that I haven't seen above is to buy a quality solder gun; something like 60 watts or above. It makes it much easier to do a decent job.
ReplyDeleteWhen power is off to my pool I have a light on salt system panel. When I start up pump and filter the light on salt system panel goes off. Do not have an error message just power light goes off. Any recommendations?
ReplyDeleteI had this problem, I replaced the mother board and still have the same problem!! Help!
ReplyDeleteInspect Cell and Check Salt LEDs lit. Display showed "0",zero Salt reading.
ReplyDeleteResodered crispy looking K1 joints. All working now.
What fuses are you guys talking about changing? I soldered it as instructed and it still shows NO CELL POWER except now it says NO CELL POWER 2. I will try again tomorrow. Also where can I buy the K1 relay and how do I know what kind to buy.
ReplyDeleteTried again today and still NO CELL POWER. Where can I buy a K1 part and are there any generic ones that are comparable to the actual one I have in my AQL P4
ReplyDeleteDang I'm so disappointed. I first checked the fuse and it tested good. I soldered the the burnt burnt prong on the K1 relay like everyone else did and no change. I purchased and replaces the K1 relay for my AQL P4 model and still NO change. I don't know what the next step should be. I am so disgusted because I just bought a new cell 2 months ago. Anyone that has any suggestions please feel free to give them. Thanks in advance.
ReplyDeleteDIAGNOSTIC GUIDE HERE
ReplyDeletehttps://images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/aquarite-troubleshooting-guide.pdf
I had the no cell power problem. The solder in the back was not burned, I still replaced the relay with this one: 255-1878-ND from digikey (sourcing the same one from omron was impossible). Resolved the whole thing, same problem. I made sure my soldering was good, still no luck. I ended up tracing the electricy throughout the PCB and here it is:
ReplyDelete-from pcb to transformer (24 VAC) orange
-from transformer to PCB (24 VAC) orange
-from PCB to Rectifier
-from rectifier to PCB
-from PCB to Fuse
-From Fuse to PCB
I ended up detecting that the voltage from the PCB to rectifier was not 20isch VAC as expected, but was just 2V. The fuse was good so not the culprit.
I took the yellow and orange wires on both side of the fuse, I pulled the fuse, and connected both wire directly on the fuse. Guess what, the cell started running.
Now, I suspect I may be bypassing the relay but until I figure out what the heck is wrong it is working, and that tells me that : my cell is good, my transformer is good, my rectifier is good, my fuse is good. Only issue now is the PCB which I refused to replace.
I will check if my relay is really bypassed, I sent an email to hayward and will report back on what they say. If that can helps someone debug the source of their problem good. I'm also suspecting that maybe the issue is with the resistor which is right next to the fuse. some guy on houzz website reported a problem with it.
ok so this will get burry down in the forum but in case someone reads the whole thing. If you don't have the burned solder point behind the board, try this.
DeleteIf you get "no cell power", before doing anything else, here's the easiest testing method.
turn off the main braker
Unplug the yellow and orange cable above the yellow fuse, top right. Unplug the yellow fuse from its socket. Plug both wire to the fuse directly.
turn on the main braker and your goldline. Try starting the filter/pump. If you see in the diagnostic menu that the cell gets power and makes chlorine, your issue is not with the transo, rectifier, the fuse or the cell. The issue is 100% on the board. The issue on the board can come from 2 places:
-the relay
-the resistance next to the fuse.
try using a voltmeter on the resistance and see if current can go through, continuity test(while everything is turned off). If it does not, that's your problem. Find a 0.2 Ohm 3-5Watts resistance, and replace it. I used a 0.27, 5W one as that's all I had. The resistance was too large to fit so I had it rest on the side of the PCB using long wire. 40 cents fix instead of replacing the whole PCB.
If your resistance is ok, replace your relay. digi-key has one and it's not overly easy to unsolder the broken one but takte your time. good luck.
I have had the NO cell power failure for years now. After repairing it myself 3 times over 8 years, it had actually burnt a hole in the board. After struggling over a replacement or upgrading to different equipment, God's light shined down on me. I found Salt Solutions Inc. in Tampa FL. They were able to send me a board and then when I sent back my board they gave me my core fee back. All said and dine it was less than half the price of a replacement board that the local pool companies wanted to charge me. Thank you Steve @ https://saltsolutionsinc.com you are a life saver!
ReplyDelete